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In Italy, though, the pasta and the sauce are as intertwined as the dancer and the dance. Moises understands the balance. Be aware, however, that the portions are as Italian as the pasta, about four to five ounces. Unless you're a ballerina, don't count on bringing home leftovers. To be honest, I can't decide on a favorite dish. Moises prepares chitarra (spaghetti like strands (pronounced KEE tar rah), in two classic sauces: creamy carbonara ($14) with guanciale (unsmoked pork jowl bacon), pecorino, egg and onion; and al'amatriciana ($15) with guanciale, tomato, onion, parsley and a touch of hot pepper. Fettuccini also gets two sauce treatment, and they're each as good Adidas Superstar Pink Tumblr as they sound.

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One s.

by the bucket).

On one visit, the platter included roasted cauliflower, roasted fennel and kale lusciously tossed with pine nuts and Parmigiano Reggiano. Another time the kale came with roasted baby beets and sugar snap peas accented with mint. Moises' fritto misto ($9) shows a deft touch: One day's plate brought together crisp fried pecorino cheese, flash fried broccolini and cauliflower and a pair of terrific fried olives stuffed with pork ragu. You could make a very satisfying meal out of cheese, too. You won't get much closer to Italy in the Valley than the ample for sharing salad of buffalo mozzarella and superb heirloom tomatoes brightened with pesto and anchovy ($10). And you'll get your 10 dollars' worth of decadence from the fried buffalo mozzarella freshened with marinara sauce. In too many Italian restaurants, pasta functions principally as a sauce delivery system (often, alas, delivered Womens Adidas Superstar Athletic Shoe

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keep the evening going bite. Moises has put together a scaled down menu of appetizers, homemade pastas and sides. Although the scope is modest, the skillful execution isn't. And factoring in the quality, prices are reasonable. The quality jumps out at you. The appetizers are so good you could (almost) make a case for skipping the pasta. The local farm vegetables ($10) taste as if they just got pulled from the ground.

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